Thinking Through Fashion

A Guide to Key Theorists

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Author: Agnès Rocamora

Publisher: I.B.Tauris

ISBN: 0857739867

Category: Art

Page: 320

View: 532

Learning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one’s ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fashion, dress, and material culture and, conversely, the relevance of those fields to social and cultural theory. It does so by offering a guide through the work of selected major thinkers, introducing their concepts and ideas. Each chapter is written by an expert contributor and is devoted to a key thinker, capturing the significance of their thought to the understanding of the field of fashion, while also assessing the importance of this field for a critical engagement with these thinkers’ ideas. This is a guide and reference for students and scholars in the fields of fashion, dress and material culture, the creative industries, sociology, cultural history, design and cultural studies.

Thinking Through Fashion

A Guide to the Key Theorists

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Author: Agnès Rocamora

Publisher: I. B. Tauris

ISBN: 9781780767338

Category:

Page: 368

View: 1846

The field of fashion is now a major topic of enquiry in social and cultural theory. However, students often find it difficult to apply key social and cultural theoretical frameworks and concepts to their study of fashion. This book is designed to fill this gap for a ‘how’ to think through fashion. Each chapter is a guide through the work of a selected major thinker, such as Marx, Freud, Simmel, Benjamin, Bakhtin, Barthes, Goffman, Deleuze, Foucault, Baudrillard and Butler, introducing key concepts and ideas, discussing how they have been appropriated by various authors to engage with the topics of fashion, dress and appearance, and looking at other ways in which they can be taken over to reflect on these topics.

Thinking Through Fashion

A Guide to the Key Theorists

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Author: Agnes Rocamora,Anneke Smelik

Publisher: I. B. Tauris

ISBN: 9781780767345

Category:

Page: 320

View: 5477

Learning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one s ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fashion, dress, and material culture and, conversely, the relevance of those fields to social and cultural theory. It does so by offering a guide through the work of selected major thinkers, introducing their concepts and ideas. Each chapter is written by an expert contributor and is devoted to a key thinker, capturing the significance of their thought to the understanding of the field of fashion, while also assessing the importance of this field for a critical engagement with these thinkers ideas. This is a guide and reference for students and scholars in the fields of fashion, dress and material culture, the creative industries, sociology, cultural history, design and cultural studies."

Adorned in Dreams

Fashion and Modernity

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Author: Elizabeth Wilson

Publisher: Rutgers University Press

ISBN: 9780813533339

Category: Social Science

Page: 328

View: 4085

When Adorned in Dreams was first published in 1985, Angela Carter described the book as "the best I have read on the subject, bar none." From haute couture to haberdashery, "deviant" dress to Dior, Elizabeth Wilson traces the social and cultural history of fashion and its complex relationship to modernity. She also discusses fashion's vociferous opponents, from the "dress reform" movement to certain strands of feminism. Wilson delights in the power of fashion to mark out identity or subvert it. This brand new edition of her book follows recent developments to bring the story of fashionable dress up to date, exploring the grunge look inspired by bands like Nirvana, the "boho chic" of the mid 90's, retro-dressing, and the meanings of dress from the veil to soccer player David Beckham's pink-varnished toenails.

Fashion-ology

An Introduction to Fashion Studies

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Author: Yuniya Kawamura

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 1474278493

Category: Design

Page: 168

View: 7114

This new edition of a classic work offers a concise introduction to the sociology of fashion, and demystifies the workings of the fashion system. From the origins of fashion studies and the difference between clothing and fashion, through to an examination of 21st century subcultures, and the impact of the digital age on designers, Fashion-ology explores fashion as a global, social construct. With accessible overviews of key debates, issues and perspectives, the book provides a complete exploration of the field, and features a wide range of international case studies which bring the theory to life. Updated with two new chapters on subcultures and the impact of technology, along with guides to further reading and a student guide to sociological research in fashion, this is essential reading for anyone studying fashion, sociology, anthropology, and cultural studies.

Fashion and Cultural Studies

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Author: Susan B. Kaiser

Publisher: A&C Black

ISBN: 0857854313

Category: Design

Page: 288

View: 6621

Bridging theory and practice, this accessible text provides an introduction to fashion from both cultural studies and fashion studies perspectives, and addresses the growing interaction between the two fields. Cultural studies relies on fashion to exemplify change as well as continuity, examine identity and difference, agency and structure, and production and consumption. Fashion, meanwhile, benefits from the interpretative lens of cultural studies; its key concepts, contextual flexibility, and attention to bridging 'high' and 'popular' culture, contemporary and historical perspectives, and diverse identity issues and methodologies. Organised thematically, the book uses a wide range of cross-cultural case studies to explore ethnicity, class, gender and nation through fashion, and explains the ways in which these notions interact and overlap. Drawing on intersectionality theory in feminist theory and cultural studies, Fashion and Cultural Studies is essential reading for students and scholars.

Fashion Theory

A Reader

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Author: Malcolm Barnard

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 1351567241

Category: Design

Page: 610

View: 3851

From its beginnings in the fifteenth century, intensified interest in fashion and the study of fashion over the last thirty years has led to a vast and varied literature on the subject. This collection of essays surveys and contextualizes the ways in which a wide range of disciplines have used a variety of theoretical approaches to explain, and sometimes to explain away, the astonishing variety, complexity and beauty of fashion. Themes covered include individual, social and gender identity, the erotic, consumption and communication. By collecting together some of the most influential and important writers on fashion and exposing the ideas and theories behind what they say, this unique collection of extracts and essays brings to light the presuppositions involved in the things we think and say about fashion.

The Culture of Fashion

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Author: Christopher Breward

Publisher: Manchester University Press

ISBN: 9780719041259

Category: Design

Page: 244

View: 2941

This illustrated survey of 600 years of fashion investigates its cultural and social meaning from medieval Europe to twentieth-century America. Breward's work provides the reader with a clear guide to the changes in style and taste and shows that clothes have always played a pivotal role in defining a sense of identity and society, especially when concerned with sexual and body politics.

Experimental Fashion

Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body

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Author: Francesca Granata

Publisher: I.B.Tauris

ISBN: 1784533793

Category: SOCIAL SCIENCE

Page: 217

View: 3657

Experimental Fashion traces the proliferation of the grotesque and carnivalesque within contemporary fashion and the close relation between fashion and performance art, from Lady Gaga's raw meat dress to Leigh Bowery's performance style. Francesca Granata examines the designers and performance artists at the turn of the twenty-first century whose work challenges established codes of what represents the fashionable body. These innovative people, she argues, make their challenges through dynamic strategies of parody, humor, and inversion. Experimental Fashion explores the experimental work of modern designers such as Georgina Godley, Bernhard Willhelm, Rei Kawakubo, and fashion designer, performance artist, and club figure, Leigh Bowery. It also discusses the increased centrality of experimental fashion through the pop phenomenon, Lady Gaga.

Doing Research in Fashion and Dress

An Introduction to Qualitative Methods

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Author: Yuniya Kawamura

Publisher: Berg

ISBN: 1847885829

Category: Design

Page: 150

View: 6366

Provides readers with a guided introduction to the key qualitative methodological approaches and shows students how 'to do' research by combining theoretical and practical perspectives.

The Fashioned Body

Fashion, Dress and Social Theory

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Author: Joanne Entwistle

Publisher: John Wiley & Sons

ISBN: 0745689396

Category: Business & Economics

Page: 272

View: 6939

The Fashioned Body provides a wide-ranging and original overview of fashion and dress from an historical and sociological perspective. Where once fashion was seen as marginal, it has now entered into core economic discourse focused around ideas about ‘cultural’ and ‘creative’ work as a major driver of developed economies. With a new preface and new material on the evolving fashion industry, this second edition gives a clear summary of the theories surrounding the role and function of fashion in modern society. Entwistle examines how fashion plays a crucial role in the formation of modern identity through its articulation of the body, gender and sexuality. The book offers a much needed synthesis between the literature on fashion and dress, and the sociology of the body, offering an updated critique of the issues raised in the first edition. Entwistle shows how an understanding of fashion and dress requires an understanding of the meanings acquired by the body in culture since it is the body that fashion speaks to and which is dressed in almost all social situations and encounters. She argues that while fashion refers to a specific system of dress originating in the west, all cultures ‘dress’ the body in the same way, making it a crucial feature of social order. Drawing on the work of theorists, the book offers insights into the connections that need to be made between the body, fashion and dress. The Fashioned Body will be an invaluable resource for anyone interested in the social role of fashion and dress in modern culture.

Fashioning Memory

Vintage Style and Youth Culture

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Author: Heike Jenss

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 147426199X

Category: Design

Page: 192

View: 6450

The valuing of old clothes as "vintageÂ?? and the recollection of the sartorial past, whether through second-hand consumption or the wearing of new old-fashioned clothes, has become a widespread phenomenon. This book illuminates sartorial and bodily engagements with memory and time through the temporal and nostalgic potency of fashion, and what this means for contemporary wearers. Based on in-depth ethnographic research including participant observation and interviews with sixties enthusiasts in Germany, who relocate British mod style into the twenty-first century, Jenss examines the practices and experiences that are part of the sartorial remembering of "the sixties,Â?? from hunting flea markets and eBay, to the affect of material and mediated memories on vintage wearers. Jenss offers unique insights into the fashioning of time, cultural memory, and modernity, tracing the history and current appeal of vintage in fashion and youth culture, and asking: what kind of experiences of temporality and memory are enacted through fashion? How have evaluations of second-hand clothes shifted in the twentieth century? Fashioning Memory provides a unique insight into the diverse use of fashion as a memory mode and asks how style is remembered, performed, transformed, and reinvested across time, place, and generation.

Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion

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Author: Giovanni Matteucci,Stefano Marino

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 1474237487

Category: Design

Page: 208

View: 510

Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion places philosophical approaches at the heart of contemporary fashion studies. Considering the mutual relationships between aesthetics, modern society and culture, fashion and the fine arts, and the way these relationships have influenced and shaped our views on identity and taste, this ground-breaking book also explores the various intellectual and cultural movements that inform how people dress. In the context of the most recent debates, the leading fashion and philosophy scholars contributing to this volume refer to and apply theories posed by key thinkers of the modern and contemporary age, from Darwin and Wittgenstein to Husserl and Goodman, in order to answer questions such as: What is the essence of fashion and the reasons behind its fascination? What is 'anti-fashion'? What or who do we imitate when we 'follow' fashion? What is fashion criticism and what should it be? Anyone studying or interested in fashion, philosophy or art will find this book a rich source of ideas, insight and information. Philosophical Perspectives on Fashion is a valuable contribution to contemporary fashion theory and aesthetics, one that revitalizes the way we look at the form, purpose and meaning of fashion and aesthetic experience.

Fashion and Its Social Agendas

Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing

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Author: Diana Crane

Publisher: University of Chicago Press

ISBN: 0226924831

Category: Social Science

Page: 304

View: 8941

It has long been said that clothes make the man (or woman), but is it still true today? If so, how has the information clothes convey changed over the years? Using a wide range of historical and contemporary materials, Diana Crane demonstrates how the social significance of clothing has been transformed. Crane compares nineteenth-century societies—France and the United States—where social class was the most salient aspect of social identity signified in clothing with late twentieth-century America, where lifestyle, gender, sexual orientation, age, and ethnicity are more meaningful to individuals in constructing their wardrobes. Today, clothes worn at work signify social class, but leisure clothes convey meanings ranging from trite to political. In today's multicode societies, clothes inhibit as well as facilitate communication between highly fragmented social groups. Crane extends her comparison by showing how nineteenth-century French designers created fashions that suited lifestyles of Paris elites but that were also widely adopted outside France. By contrast, today's designers operate in a global marketplace, shaped by television, film, and popular music. No longer confined to elites, trendsetters are drawn from many social groups, and most trends have short trajectories. To assess the impact of fashion on women, Crane uses voices of college-aged and middle-aged women who took part in focus groups. These discussions yield fascinating information about women's perceptions of female identity and sexuality in the fashion industry. An absorbing work, Fashion and Its Social Agendas stands out as a critical study of gender, fashion, and consumer culture. "Why do people dress the way they do? How does clothing contribute to a person's identity as a man or woman, as a white-collar professional or blue-collar worker, as a preppie, yuppie, or nerd? How is it that dress no longer denotes social class so much as lifestyle? . . . Intelligent and informative, [this] book proposes thoughtful answers to some of these questions."-Library Journal

Fashioning the City

Paris, Fashion and the Media

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Author: Agnes Rocamora

Publisher: I.B.Tauris

ISBN: 0857731130

Category: Social Science

Page: 256

View: 5892

The fashion media have been central to the consecration of the city of Paris on the fashion map, as well as its celebration in the collective imagination. Indeed, with its conjunction of images and words, the fashion press constitutes a rich platform for an interrogation of how Paris has come to be constituted as a leading fashion city. Yet while much attention has been paid to the making of Paris in the work of various writers and artists, little is known about the city as defined and created by the fashion media. Based on an original analysis of fashion writing and images in contemporary French fashion magazines and newspapers, this illuminating book focuses on the discourse of the contemporary French fashion press on Paris, and so attends to this gap in studies of the French capital. Agnès Rocamora explores, for example, the figures of la Parisienne and la passante (the female passer-by), and the presence of the Eiffel Tower in fashion visuals. She gives attention to the continuum between the French journalistic discourse and that of cultural forms such as films, paintings and literature, thus revealing the persistence across texts and time of visions of Paris and shedding light on the production and reproduction of the Paris myth.

Fashion as Communication

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Author: Malcolm Barnard

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 1136412972

Category: Language Arts & Disciplines

Page: 224

View: 3319

What kinds of things do fashion and clothing say about us? What does it mean to wear Gap or Gaultier, Milletts or Moschino? Are there any real differences between Hip-Hop style and Punk anti-styles? In this fully revised and updated edition, Malcolm Barnard introduces fashion and clothing as ways of communicating and challenging class, gender, sexual and social identities. Drawing on a range of theoretical approaches from Barthes and Baudrillard to Marxist, psychoanalytic and feminist theory, Barnard addresses the ambivalent status of fashion in contemporary culture.

Fashion and Everyday Life

London and New York

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Author: Cheryl Buckley,Hazel Clark

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 1474273122

Category: Design

Page: 328

View: 1849

Taking cultural theorist Michel de Certeau's notion of 'the everyday' as a critical starting point, this book considers how fashion shapes and is shaped by everyday life. Looking historically for the imprint of fashion within everyday routines such as going to work or shopping, or in leisure activities like dancing, the book identifies the 'fashion system of the ordinary', in which clothing has a distinct role in the making of self and identity. Exploring the period from 1890 to 2010, the study is located in London and New York, cities that emerged as as socially, ethnically and culturally diverse, as well as increasingly fashionable. The book re-focuses fashion discourse away from well-trodden, power-laden dynamics, towards a re-evaluation of time, memory, and above all history, and their relationship to fashion and everyday life. The importance of place and space - and issues of gender, race and social class - provides the broader framework, revealing fashion as both routine and exceptional, and as an increasingly significant part of urban life. By focusing on key themes such as clothing the city, what is worn on the streets, the imagining and performing of multiple identities by dressing up and down, going out, and showing off, Fashion and Everyday Life makes a unique contribution to the literature of fashion studies, fashion history, cultural studies, and beyond.

Systeme de la Mode

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Author: Roland Barthes

Publisher: Univ of California Press

ISBN: 9780520071773

Category: Language Arts & Disciplines

Page: 303

View: 3576

On semiotics, fashion and philosophy

Fashion

A Canadian Perspective

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Author: Alexandra Palmer

Publisher: University of Toronto Press

ISBN: 9780802085900

Category: Design

Page: 382

View: 413

Controversial and unconventional, this collection examines Canadian identity in terms of the fashion worn and designed over the last three centuries, and the internal and external influences of those socio-cultural decisions.

The Handbook of Fashion Studies

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Author: Sandy Black,Amy de la Haye,Joanne Entwistle,Regina Root,Agnà ̈s Rocamora,Helen Thomas

Publisher: A&C Black

ISBN: 1472577434

Category: Design

Page: 656

View: 2062

The Handbook of Fashion Studies identifies an innovative spectrum of thematic approaches, key strands and interdisciplinary concepts that continue to push forward the boundaries of fashion studies. The book is divided into seven sections: Fashion, Identity and Difference; Spaces of Fashion; Fashion and Materiality; Fashion, Agency and Policy; Science, Technology and New fashion; Fashion and Time and, Sustainable Fashion in a Globalised world. Each section consists of approximately four essays authored by established researchers in the field from the UK, USA, Netherlands, Sweden, Canada and Australia. The essays are written by international subject specialists who each engage with their section's theme in the light of their own discipline and provide clear case-studies to further knowledge on fashion. This consistency provides clarity and permits comparative analysis. The handbook will be essential reading for students of fashion as well as professionals in the industry.